Fiberglass Roofs (Roof Replacement Tutorial- Part 1 )

Hey everyone! So in this article, I will try to provide you with as much value as possible when it comes to the topic of fiberglass roofs. As you’ve seen thus far, we have talked more about carbon fibers. However fiberglass is really the second thing I specialize in, so I just wanted to offer you some insights and ideas on how to leverage this amazing piece of advanced material that is available to you.

So here I’m going to show you how to replace an old bay window roof with a new custom made fiberglass roof. Before I get into this, let me just make one thing clear: I am not a roofer but only a fiberglass expert. Everything shared with you today, is really wisdom and advice that my roofer has shared with me. If you are looking for answers to your questions, feel free to reach out to me but also make sure you get to the roofer too. Here’s his site:¬†

Firstly disconnect any gutter that may be fouling your access. This is really un clipping any unions with your hands and sliding out the length of gotri. Next remove the bottom row of tiles if present. The top of the fascia needs to be replaced. Unscrew any gutter brackets in the way, or leave them off gently with a flat pry ball. Next remove any old roof covering – cutting it into smaller pieces, makes it easier to remove it. Remove any of the garbage you find, until you get down to the bare wood. If you are keeping the original tongue and groove decking (which you can if the wood isn’t rotten) screw down through the tongue and groove into the rafters underneath. As the original nails may fail in the future, I tend to use screws rather than nails as it will impact a lot less on any sealing sitting underneath.

If it’s a full replacement of the decking then I would recommend 18 mm sterling board. If you’re cutting over good wood, then use something like 10 or 11 mm sterling board. If possible, just place the sterling board on top and in position. By popping your head underneath, mark any angles or course with a pencil. Just work your way around and keep marking. Now flip the sterling board over and join up any marks with a straight edge in a pencil ready for cutting. Once cut, finally adjust the decking so it is in line properly with any trims underneath. Here again I screw the new decking into the joists, driving all the screws 1-2 mm into the sterling so that no screw sits above the face of the wood.

Now with the new roof in place we can measure up new drip trims. You can set the height of the drip simply by cutting with some tin snips and here I would use an external angle trim. Starting at one side, mark your first cut up against the wall with a pencil. Cut it with a set of ten steps. Then, with your new cut edge abutting the wall mark the next¬†angle for cutting with your pencil and snip it again. Either nail it into place with galvanized cloud headed nails, or use PU adhesive. My personal choice is nails, because working at close quarters and PU adhesive can lead to bumping into it and moving it if it’s not mechanically fixed down. If you are nailing, don’t hammer the nails all the way in until you are 100% happy with the finish.

I guess I can only make so many articles per day. Will come back tomorrow with a lot more: completing these steps and also getting you a lot more informative tips for your every day construction needs. Reach out to me with any questions.